This article is to help troubleshoot most issues with 500w helical motor pumps and 100v controllers. Double check if the pump is helical or centrifugal
The best way to determine a customers issue is: question, questions, questions!
Most customers want to tell you what they are noticing or having issues with when it comes to their system, this is amazing for us! Remember to listen, take questions and empathize with your customer,
ask them how they are, how their day is going. We want to avoid making them repeat themselves or ask
questions they've already answered.
Some excellent questions so ask are:
*How is the weather?
*How long has the pump been installed?
*When did you notice this start?
*Are you getting any water?
*Are you hearing or feeling any vibration from the pump?
*How old is the well?
*What direction are your solar panels mounted?
This will help get you started in knowing what issues most likely need troubleshooting. Choose from the
dropdown above to select the issue.
Basic Troubleshooting
Basic troubleshooting steps are commonly used in most cases that can't be fixed by answering simple questions. You can diagnose a worn mechanism, low power and even a bad motor. These steps will be used in most cases.
Check Solar voltage or VDC
This shows how the panels are functioning and if there is power going to the system
1)Set a multimeter to voltage DC, this is symbolized as a straight line with a dotted line underneath,
or sometimes just a straight solid line.
2)Disconnect the MC4 connectors from the control box to the solar panels.
3)Insert the positive (red) multimeter probe into the male (positive) connector from the solar panel and the negative probe (black) into the female (negative) connector from the solar panel.
4)Check and record the number reading.
Check pump signal or VAC
This shows the signal coming back from the pump, as the pump spins, it creates magnetic pulses that run back up the the pump called back EMF signals. Reading VAC shows us these back EMF signals
1) Set a multimeter to voltage AC, this is symbolized as a wavy line, signifying the sine wave
2) Touch them to the pump wires inside the control box while the control box is set to an "on" position. These are wires in the terminals 1,2 and 3.
*In older models, these are labels U,V and W
3)check and record the number reading.
Check resistance
This will let you know if the pump splice is connected.
1)Set your multimeter to Ohms (or the upside down horseshoe)
2) Disconnect the pump wires (1,2,and 3) and test between each pair. 1 and, 1 and 3 then 2 and 3
3) Check and record the number readings.
Check Amperage
This will let you know if the pump is pulling power
1) Set your Multimeter to 60A~- and hit the Z/F button until it says DC on the left hand side and has a small A on the bottom right.
2) Connect the jaws of the clamp around the conductor. Make sure that the jaws of the clamp are fully closed around the conductor before taking a reading.
3) Take a reading. The display on the clamp meter will show the amperage flowing through the conductor. Record the number shown.
Soft Reset
Turn the controller OFF for 30 seconds. Then turn back to SOLAR and allow system light to come back on.
Hard Reset
Turn the controller OFF. Shade solar panels (use a cloth, tarp, etc.) and unclip MC4 connectors from solar panels (and disconnect battery wires if you are using them). Remove wires from COM1 and WH terminals.
If pump is submerged fully, connect COM1 and WH terminals with a small jumper wire. Completely remove wires from COM2 and TH terminals. Now connect the solar wires again. Turn switch back to top position (SOLAR) and allow system light to come back on.
Here is a basic template for notes that may help with basic troubleshooting
|
How long installed?>
Amps (power draw)> |
If your customer cannot troubleshoot right then, send the basic troubleshooting email and video:
|
Hey (customer name), Here's the link to that troubleshooting video I was telling you about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzFISQ-HJNE . I'm going to have you do tests 1, 5, then 3. On test 1 (the input voltage), you should see about 88 Voltage DC. On test 5, you should see about 55 Voltage AC from each combination from the back emf wave. On test 3, you should see 0.5 Ohms to 5 Ohms.
|
Abnormal light behaviour
Abnormal light behaviour refers to any lights or lack of lights that isn't normally seen on the controller. This can be no lights at all but the pump is running, all lights flashing in unison, random lights lit without the normal ones on or flickering.
Normal light behaviours are having the power, pump and MPPT lights on when the pump is active.
Low well will trigger when the sensor is no longer touching water or if there is nothing wired into the terminals. as it's normally closed circuit.
Tank full will trigger when the sensor is touching water or if the terminals are wired incorrectly, such as being wired COM2 to COM1, it is normally open circuit.
When in battery mode, all three MPPT, power and pump will flash in unison.
Low power will trigger when there is low solar power, low battery power OR if there is an issue with the pump requiring troubleshooting.
No lights with the pump running normally
This is usually caused by a faulty LED ribbon cable.
1) Check the VDC coming from the pump to make sure there is solar power available. See basic troubleshooting above.
2) Check If the 5D2 light is on. This is a small green LED light on the circuit board inside the control box. This indicates the power is getting into the control box
If power is coming from the solar and the light is on, place an order on Shopify for a new control box LED ribbon cable. It will be added as a custom line item.
No lights with the pump not running
1) Check the VDC coming from the pump to make sure there is solar power available. See basic troubleshooting above.
-If not, refer to Troubleshooting Solar Panels. If there is, continue with troubleshooting instructions.
2)Disconnect and reconnect solar wires from control box connections.
3)Check If the 5D2 light is on. This is a small green LED light on the circuit board inside the control box. This indicates the power is getting into the control box
-If the connections are secure and there is solar power available but the light is not on and the pump isn't running, replace control box under warranty, if within warranty period.
This can also occur due to a manufacturing defect or short circuiting due to an external factor. Check for evidence of external factors such as Mud Dauber wasp nests, Crazy Ants (these are very real ants that eat circuit boards, we encourage you to look them up) spider nests, or signs of improper care. If these are found, offer a refurbished unit for purchase or a new unit with an "Act of Insect/God" discount.
If there is no "act of insect" or improper care found, this can be considered a defect and can be replaced under warranty if they're still covered.
Error light
This is usually caused by an issue with the batteries if there are any.
1) Ask if there are batteries
- if yes, continue troubleshooting
- if no, check account to see if they were upgraded to a workhorse deep submersion (W3H)
- if yes to W3H, the splice is bad and will need to be redone. Send new splice kit.
2)Ask about the type of batteries. They must either be AGM Sealed lead acid or gel deep cycle marine batteries and are all the same.
3) Check the set up of the batteries vs solar panels. 2 panels should have 2 batteries in series. 4 panels should have either 2 or 4 batteries in series.
4) Remove batteries and do a soft reset. If the error light persists, replace the controller under warranty if covered.
Irregular light flashing
Irregular light flashing is anything we wouldn't normally expect to see or a common error such as sporadic flashing or flickering light. These generally just require a replacement of the control box or ribbon wire depending if the pump is working normally or not.
Blinking MPPT lights
A blinking MPPT light on the front of the control box is considered normal behaviour, this light shows that the system is trying to optimize power. MPPT stands for max power point tracking and should either be blinking or solid on the majority of situations. The only time it should be off is when the controller is set of an "off" position or if "well low" or "tank full" are triggered.
Burnt spots in controller or smoke
Most commonly this is caused by wiring solar panels incorrectly but can be cause by lightning or faulty diodes or transducers.
Smoke from controller on install
1) Ask the customer how their panels are wired, gather pictures for documentation. The panels are wired incorrectly, they have damaged the over-voltage protection diode in their control box.
2) Have customer rewire their panels and ensure proper voltage.
3) Provide the customer The Over Voltage Protection/ Blue Diode Removal Sheet.
Blackened diode after install
Blackened spots inside the controller can occur because of environmental factors such as lightning. We often see the diode smoke and blacken after a storm if the solar panels have been struck by lightning. Another instance that happens rarely occurs when it's extremally cold but it's still extremely sunny. When this happens, the panels actually produce more energy than normal as the cold increases efficiency. Think of it as the panels hulking out. This can create more than the 100v needed to trigger the diode and burn it up.
1) Provide the customer The Over Voltage Protection/ Blue Diode Removal Sheet.
2) Have them remove the diode by gently wiggling it back and forth until it comes out easily.
3) Check for wiring damage.
4) Have customer rewire their panels and ensure proper voltage if needed.
5) If the control box was damaged by lightning and is grounded, replace under warranty. If the controller was not grounded, offer an "Act of God" discount.
If the controller was damaged by extreme cold but still being sunny, replace the control box under warranty.
Black spots on circuit board not including the diode.
This can either occur due to a manufacturing defect or short circuiting due to an external factor. Check for evidence of external factors such as Mud Dauber wasp nests, Crazy Ants (these are very real ants that eat circuit boards, we encourage you to look them up) spider nests, or signs of improper care. If these are found, offer a refurbished unit for purchase or a new unit with an "Act of Insect/God" discount.
If there is no "act of insect" or improper care found, this can be considered a defect and can be replaced under warranty if they're still covered.
Lights cycling or blinking
Light cycling is typically caused by low power. Request pictures of the panel setup, front and back. This will help us determine the weather and if the panels are wired correctly. We can often see obstructions such as the shipping corners left on, things set on the panels, the panels being dirty.
1) request pictures and ask about the weather.
2) Ask about shadows that may cross over the panels from trees, fences, posts.
3) Check that the speed dial is set to 10. If not set to 10 and see if the issue is resolved. If not continue troubleshooting.
4) Run through all basic troubleshooting steps
- VAC should be about 50-55 for the 400
- VAC should be about 30-36 for the 600
- VAC should be about 50-55 for the 800
- VDC should be about 80-88 for the 400
- VDC should be about 60-66 for the 600
- VDC should be about 80-88 for the 800
- Amps should be about 4-5 for the 400
- Amps should be about 5-6 for the 600
- Amps should be about 6-7 for the 800
- resistance should be between .5 and 5
If the VDC is low, there's just not enough solar power.
Check each panel to make sure one hasn't gone out.
There are almost never cases where the VDC is too high, check for burnt diode.
If the Amps are low, there's not enough solar power or the mech is worn and should be replaced. Send new mechanism (3"). Here's the video for the helical mechanism: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxeATxuipB8 .
or the motor isn't spinning properly, run a bucket test.
If amps are too high, this indicates the system is working very hard and drawing extra power. Check submersion depth and adjust if needed. The system could be jammed. Do direct hook up test.
If resistance is too low, check and redo splice. Send new splice kit. This indicates an open line. If this doesn't fix the system, there might be a separation in the wire inside the pump
If resistance is too high, check and redo splice. Send new splice kit. This indicates an water in the splice.
If resistance is uneven, one line of the splice is open. check and redo splice. Send new splice kit.
Low power
Follow troubleshooting above. Low power light shows there's enough power to operate the control box just not run the pump. It could also indicate an issue with the mechanism.
If set to battery, it indicates the batteries need to be charged. Disconnect and charge on an external charger.
Low well light on or blinking
The Low Well light can be perfectly normal, we see this happen when the sensor is no longer touching water. Because the circuit is open, water needs to touch the sensor in order to close and allow for pumping. The Low Well light can also come on if there's improper wiring or if there is an issue with the sensor.
Low well light solidly on
1) Ask the customer if they have the sensor installed and if so, how it's wired.
*If they don't have the sensor installed, explain that the terminals need to have something to close the circuit and ask if they have any worry about their water source running dry. This is important because the pump can be seriously damaged if it runs when there isn't and water to keep it cool. If they are worried about it, have them install the sensor into terminals COM1 and WH. If they say they aren't worried about it, explain that this is a protection feature for the pump and is designed to prevent damage that can void the warranty. If they want to proceed, continue troubleshooting.
2) Have the customer install a short piece of wire, known as a jumper wire, between COM1 and WH. If this starts the pump and turns off the light, yay! If not, continue on.
3) If the Well Low stays on with a jumper in place, the controller is defective and can be replace if covered under warranty.
Low well light blinking.
The low well light blinking is an indicator that the well low sensor has been triggered but the pump hasn't started again because the timer is active. Have the customer turn off the controller, turn the timer to zero and restart the controller. This should clear the low well blinking.
Low water flow
Low water flow is typically caused by low power or a worn mechanism. Request pictures of the panel setup, front and back. This will help us determine the weather and if the panels are wired correctly. We can often see obstructions such as the shipping corners left on, things set on the panels, the panels being dirty.
This can also be caused by poor water quality and sediment. Ask about water quality or if they're too close to the bottom of the well.
1) request pictures and ask about the weather.
2) Ask about shadows that may cross over the panels from trees, fences, posts.
3) Check that the speed dial is set to 10. If not set to 10 and see if the issue is resolved. If not continue troubleshooting.
4) Run through all basic troubleshooting steps
-
- VAC should be about 50-55 for the 400
- VAC should be about 30-35 for the 600
- VAC should be about 50-55 for the 800
- VDC should be about 80-88 for the 400
- VDC should be about 60-66 for the 600
- VDC should be about 80-88 for the 800
- Amps should be about 4-5 for the 400
- Amps should be about 5-6 for the 600
- Amps should be about 6-7 for the 800
- resistance should be between .5 and 5
If the VDC is low, there's just not enough solar power.
Check each panel to make sure one hasn't gone out.
There are almost never cases where the VDC is too high, check for burnt diode.
If the Amps are low, there's not enough solar power or the mech is worn and should be replaced. Send new mechanism (3"). Here's the video for the helical mechanism: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxeATxuipB8 .
If amps are too high, this indicates the system is working very hard and drawing extra power. Check submersion depth and adjust if needed. The system could be jammed. Do direct hook up test.
If resistance is too low, check and redo splice. Send new splice kit. This indicates an open line
If resistance is too high, check and redo splice. Send new splice kit. This indicates an water in the splice.
If resistance is uneven, one line of the splice is open. check and redo splice. Send new splice kit.
If using Batteries, explain:
| Since you’re using batteries, the RPS controller also acts as a charge controller and will turn the pump off when the voltage of the batteries is too low or too high to protect them from being damaged from excessive discharge or overcharging. remove and ensure batteries are fully charged 13+ volts each. |
Smoke coming from well or pump
This typically happens when the pump runs dry and the pump overheats to a point it destroys itself.
1)Ask if they have a low water sensor and it's wired properly.
2) Ask for pictures
3) do a direct hookup test.
Advise of the damage and offer a refurbished unit or new unit as replacement.
If it was caused due to a faulty sensor, replace under warranty if covered.
Surging or pulsing water
Surging or pulsing water can be caused when there isn't very much water over the top of the pump or the well isn't producing enough to steadily keep up with the pumping of the submersible pump. This will cause something called cavitation. Cavitation is a phenomenon in which the static pressure of a liquid reduces to below the liquid's vapour pressure, leading to the formation of small vapor-filled cavities in the liquid. These bubbles will cause pulsing and surging in the water flow. Have the customer lower the pump if possible or lower the speed dial to lower flow.
It may also be caused by a worn mechanism, send new mechanism and how to video.
- Here's the video for the helical mechanism: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxeATxuipB8 .
Tank full on or blinking
Tank full light solidly on.
The tank full light typically turns on when the tank full sensor is triggered. This will either be because their holding tank or cattle trough is full.
1)Have the customer check if their tank is full.
2) Ask if they have a sensor installed (silver tube) or a RAPS/transducer. If they have a wireless tank sensor, refer to Troubleshooting a Wireless Tank Sensor. If they have a timer, refer to Troubleshooting a Timer.
3) If they have the sensor, remove the wires from COM2 and TH and check if the light is still on. If it is, the terminal is faulty and the controller will need to be replaced if covered under warranty. If not, continue troubleshooting.
If they have a sensor rod, send a replacement under warranty, even if it's not covered, we want to be nice.
If they have a RAPS, check that the lever on the side is set to "AUTO" and not "ON"
*For information explaining why refer to An Explanation on the Pressure Switch.
4) Make sure the RAPS is wired with both wire on the same side of the device (both on the left, or both on the right)
5) Confirm the RAPS is not wet, sideways, or upside down. If it is, have them correct how the RAPS is situated and do a soft reset. The inside of the RAPS is a circuit, either open or closed and will show tank full if there is water contained inside.
6) If the tank full light is still active, have the customer change the sensor wire they are using to connect the switch to the controller, there may have been some damage to the wire allowing the two wires to touch on the inside.
7) If nothing has worked, replace the RAPS under warranty.
*On very rare occasions, outside forces can cause the tank full to stay on. If you've gone through all steps, replaced the switch and they're still getting tank full but it turns off when the wires are removed. Ask if they have a pressure tank. If yes refer to An Explanation of Pressure Tanks.
Tank full light blinking.
If the light is blinking irregularly. This may be due to a leak in the pipe were a pressure switch is connected. Ask the customer to check for leaks in the line.
Comments
0 comments
Please sign in to leave a comment.