Glossary of TPP Support Terms

• Prime: is the process of removing air from the pump and suction line. Some surface pumps are considered either partial or full self-priming, but the TPP/BP pumps require either positive pressure or a full prime with a foot valve on the inlet to maintain prime. Prime can be achieved through several spots on the pump casing, You can prime through the inlet, through the priming screw, or through lifting the outlet check valve to prime through the outlet. 
• Bar to PSI: Bar is a metric unit of measurement. In the US, we usually use PSI to measure pressure, but on the TPP/BP pumps, the display screen shows a bar measurement instead of a psi. Bar is equal to 14.5 PSI. 
• Priming screws: Depending on the pump module, there will be a fairly large bolt with an O ring at the base that screws somewhere into the casing of the pump. This is a priming screw and is intended to help with priming, although priming via the outlet check valve is the best method. 
• AC input: AC inputs on the different inverter models are going to look different. For V1 and V2, they will need a specific plug that Andrew will help you find. For the AC input on the V3, you will need a Nema 14-30 male pigtail and will wire the two hots into L and N and ground into G, as shown in the below image.

• Gasket: A gasket is a shaped piece or ring of rubber or other material sealing the junction between two surfaces in an engine or other device. In the TPP, the portion where the pump housing meets the motor has a large gasket to seal the pump housing from leaking. It can crack/get damaged due to water quality issues and may need to be replaced.
• Foot valve vs check valve: A foot valve is a one-way valve at the inlet of a pipe or the base of a suction pump with a filter, a check valve is the same minus a filter. We recommend a foot valve on the inlet of the pump, especially if there is any suction on the inlet.
• Outlet check valve: A one-way valve that is built into the outlet of the pump so the pump can maintain prime and the pressure sensor is able to accurately figure out what the pressure is.
• Pressure sensor: The pressure sensor is a small (diaphragm based???) sensor that is screwed into the outlet of the pump just after the outlet check valve and is what both tells the pump to pump at a certain pressure, and when to turn the pump on and off. This is a somewhat common repair part.
• Pump plug (NEMA 6-15): The plug that comes from the 220v TPP/BP pumps have 2 horizontal flat blades on the top, and then a round ground. The 110v version of the pumps use a standard 3 prong plug which allows them to be easily plugged into a household socket.
• Suction: Suction refers to any vertical rise that occurs in the plumbing to the inlet of the pump. All pumps with any suction must have a check valve or foot valve (foot valve preferred) to maintain prime.
• Positive pressure: Positive pressure is obtained by plumbing into the bottom of a tank which causes the water to be pushed into the pipe that is plumbed into the pump. This is the ideal way to set-up a TPP/BP pump as it eliminates the concern of priming. 
• Pressure tank: The Tankless Pressure Pump (or TPP), as all of our pressure pumps were originally named, is actually a misnomer as it implies that there is no pressure tank. However, the TPP and BP pumps do have a pressure tank of about a half gallon that helps to regulate the pressure and smooth out the delivery of the pressure pump.
• Timer: The timer function on the pumps is most useful in irrigation uses as it allows the pump user to set a certain amount of time (.5H, 3H, 6H, and 12H) that they want the pump to be on and able to pressurize during. It should be noted that if the pump is having no water demanded of it (aka, no valves are open demanding water) then no water will be pushed during the pre-set time period. 
• Boost: The boost button on the pump is designed to be used with water that is already slightly pressurized coming into the inlet of the pump and helps to “boost” the pressure even higher on the outlet of the pump.
• Internal impeller: Inside the pump there is either a metal or plastic impeller (or series of impellers for larger HP pumps) that spin and create the pressure for the pump. 
• Inlet and outlet: The inlet is the threaded horizontal FMPT pipe and the outlet is the threaded vertical FMPT pipe. Inlet/Outlet for pumps: 

½ HP pump= 1” & 1” 

TPP-HP, TPP750 & BP2= 1 ¼” & 1”

BP3= 1 ½” & 1 ½”

• Set pressure: Set pressure is the pressure set by the customer on his display using the plus and minus buttons- it should be noted that this is displayed in bar, which is previously defined.
• Working pressure: Working pressure is the pressure the pump is actually pushing at.
• Set pressure= Working pressure: The set pressure should always be equal to the working pressure. If it is not, it is a sign that there is no prime or a partial prime. This should be remedied as soon as discovered with a re-prime. If the working pressure drops after a re-prime, there is likely a water or air leak in the system and that will need to be addressed next.
• HP of different pumps: BP 0.5= ½ HP, TPP-HP= 1HP, TPP 750= 1 HP, BP2= 2 HP, BP3= 3 HP
• V1/V2/V3: Over the lifetime of RPS supplying pressure pumps, we have had 3 different iterations of the inverter that powers the pump. The V1 and V2 models we black plastic, one was rounded (toilet seat shaped) and the other was a rectangle with a blue LED V on it. These are retired models, but a few customers still have these controllers and may need to troubleshoot them. If having trouble with troubleshooting V1 and V2, find a more senior engineer to assist. V3 is our current version of the inverter and is a much sturdier and easier to use model (can you tell it’s preferred by the tech’s?) and is a large white metal rectangle. 
• Leak light: Leak light does not always show a leak in the set-up, but if it is on, you know you have a significant leak in the set-up that must be addressed before continuing to use the pump- also accompanied by a re-priming.